Monday 13 November 2017

Mod: Cam ECS with Neo Rhinos

The Cam ECS is a blaster I've always had my eye on, as its shell is quite nice, and as far as I'm aware it is also compatible with Stryfe flywheel cages. My problem was of course waiting for it to drop to a not-awful price, which I never saw when it was in stores. I jumped at the opportunity to acquire one for a more reasonable price second hand.


Internally, a stock Cam is quite a mess, since it has to support both the flywheel firing mechanism and the camera system.
The camera components can be mostly removed non-destructively, leaving you with a blaster that is essentially just a big Stryfe.
The new wiring is pretty simple. This Cam has my pair of Neo Rhinos in it, with Artifact Gen 2 Smooth Plastic flywheels.
I also added a lever mag release as the stock one is pretty awful. Pretty standard mods really.
I'm currently using a Turnigy Nanotech 3S 450mAh 65-130C. It doesn't last particularly long, but the Cam will likely just serve as a backup for my Bullpup RS (which is currently inoperable) so likely won't see too much use.

Muzzle velocity data can be found here. I have a feeling there's an alignment issue somewhere that's cost a couple of fps, but it still performs just fine for HvZ purposes. Overall I quite like the blaster. The handle is decent, the foregrip is very nice and the stock is a usable length. The trigger pull is also quite crisp.
I'm still undecided on what I'll do with the remainder of the body work. One option is to reinstall the camera block, empty. This is of course by far the easiest, but I'm not a fan of the huge chunk on the top. My current plan is to cut down the camera block and use it to give the Cam a flat(ish) top. My main concern with this is the flywheel cage, which does stick out a little bit and will be a complication. I also would like to find a better way of storing the LiPo that allows me to use a larger one. I'm unsure as to how or where, as the stock battery trays are not that big. I am currently considering getting another Artifact red cage to fit the blaster with, as I really like its form and feel. A full-auto kit is also something to consider, though my Desolator would also definitely appreciate one too.

I'm looking forward to giving it a combat test some time in the future.

7 comments:

  1. I've got a 2200maH 3s lipo in half of the space where the camera used to be. Power for days!

    Plus cutting the top off will leave the top of the motor cage sticking out. Not an insurmountable problem but you won't be able to flat top it completely.

    Agree with you on the ergonomic layout. One of my favourite blasters to use.

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  2. Oh, why is the Bullpup RS inoperable?

    If it has something to do with a sticky trigger, I fixed a problem like that by putting a spring below the micro-switch button. It is a fully compressed spring. It is working really well! (Make sure it is hot-glued in place).

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    Replies
    1. It has absolutely nothing to do with the trigger. Simply the top motor has toasted itself and I'm waiting for Neo Hellcats to be released.

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    2. OK. I had a problem like that, although the motor wasn't toasted. The top one wasn't getting any power. I ripped out the circuit board and just wired it myself. Works great now!

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    3. Those stock circuit boards generally don't belong anywhere near a properly spec'd flywheel build.

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    4. Curious. Did you rip the flywheel circuit board out of yours?

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    5. Of course, though since I was changing the motors anyway, it wasn't going to be hanging around regardless.

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